The free spirited edge of Koh Phangan

The paradise, parties, and the search for something more

Koh Phangan is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful islands in the Gulf of Thailand. Known for its famous full moon parties, Koh Phangan also attracts digital nomads, spiritual seekers, and free spirit travellers looking for more than just a tan.

In this YouTube video, in the section from timestamp 17:00 to 21:20, Flora and Note arrive at the entrance to Zen Beach, the island’s iconic sunset spot. The path splits. To the left, there are hand drums, families, yoga mats rolled out in the sand, and to the right, the clothing-optional section, often whispered about, rarely advertised.

They pause. After a moment, they turn right and Flora glances away and laughs, “I saw one nude person.” Later, they admit it wasn’t for them.

Like Zen Beach, Koh Phangan offers a kind of spiritual fork in the road.

The free spirits of Koh Phangan

On this page

Jump to Section Description
Healing or hustle A look at Koh Phangan’s dual nature, with influencers promoting wellness while others warn of exploitation.
The Big Yellow Taxi Exploring the rise of digital nomads on Koh Phangan, with a mix of work and wellness.
What does freedom mean? Reflecting on the cultural clashes and misunderstandings between tourists and locals on the island.
Same but different? Koh Phangan offers diverse experiences, from a spiritual retreat to a party hub, with a common underlying theme that despite trying to be different, everyone does the same thing.

Healing or hustle

Search for Koh Phangan online and you’ll mostly find influencers showing where to eat, what to detox, how much a motorbike costs, or which beach has the clearest water but that’s only one version of the island.

In that same digital world, you’ll also find stories of disillusionment. In another video, an American woman named Jordan Hankins shares her journey to Koh Phangan after being diagnosed with a rare eye condition. Her goal: to see as much of the world as possible while she still could. Koh Phangan was meant to be a two-month stop, and at first, she loved it. But slowly, her experience began to shift. She started hearing stories of inappropriate behaviour from some self-proclaimed healers.

She warns that many people come to the island looking for healing and end up spending a lot of money, not always getting what they hoped for.

“You’ve got to be careful.”

In the end, she left the island earlier than planned.

It makes one wonder: why do people turn to a stranger with a crystal or a drum instead of a doctor with a medical degree?

Are they looking for something gentler or perhaps something more personal? Is it about belonging to a community that speaks the language of wounds and release?

The Big Yellow Taxi

Since the pandemic, Koh Phangan has seen an influx of digital nomads trading office jobs for co-working cafés and beach bungalows. It’s a blend of Zoom calls by day and sound healing by night.

View from a bungalow in Koh Phangan
View from a bungalow in Koh Phangan | Photo by ASTRONAUD23 on Unsplash

It brings to mind the Joni Mitchell song Big Yellow Taxi.

“They paved paradise and put up a parking lot.”

Except in this version, it’s not a hot spot with a pink hotel as it’s a juice bar or a fancy co-working space, just a scooter ride from the sea. As Koh Phangan becomes more well-known, there are concerns that the island is slowly losing its identity.

As put together in this Redditor’s opinions about the current state of Koh Phangan during his short trip there, there are negatives regarding the type of people that the island attracts. This sentiment is common as the same kind of people being mentioned are establishing businesses and communities that are transforming the island.

Whether it’s for the better or not is entirely up to you but there are big changes occurring at Koh Phangan every year.

What does freedom mean?

Recent viral clips have shown tourists clashing with Thai shopkeepers, refusing to remove their shoes or claiming that their money pays for the country. In another widely reported incident, two visitors were arrested after embracing nude in public in broad daylight.

It seems that cultural respect isn’t always part of the wellness curriculum.

 

ดูโพสต์นี้บน Instagram

 

โพสต์ที่แชร์โดย The Thaiger (@thethaigerofficial)

Same but different?

Koh Phangan contains multitudes. It’s a paradise for some, a performance for others. A wellness sanctuary, a party zone, a digital escape, a spiritual marketplace. Maybe that’s what makes it so magnetic: everyone sees what they want to see.

But look closely, and you might realise—no matter which path you take, it often leads to the same place.

As Alex Garland wrote in The Beach…

“I just feel like everyone tries to do something different, but you always wind up doing the same damn thing.”

Whatever the case may be or what many will tell you, Koh Phangan is a lovely place to visit. Just be sure that you know what you are there for and avoid getting in trouble. With that, you will find that outside of the mainstream, Koh Phangan is paradise on earth and that is why it attracts so the free spirits of the world.

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Marita Bester

Marita Bester is a freelance writer based in Bangkok. With a knack for uncovering the quirky, the cultural, and the profoundly human, she writes captivating stories about Thailand and Southeast Asia. From thought-provoking human-interest pieces to humorous and offbeat tales, her work brings the region’s rich history and culture to life. When she’s not at her keyboard, she pursues her other loves, like running, paddle boarding, travelling, reading and savouring a perfectly brewed cup of coffee.

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