Are native grapes the next must have in the wine market?
Cantine Polvanera leads the charge for authenticity in Italy's native grapes (gentle) revolution
When it comes to wine, we often gravitate towards the obvious names; Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and a few more of them. Yet, a quiet revolution is underway. Across the globe, a growing number of wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs are turning their attention away from mass-produced, international varieties and embracing the unique stories and flavours of native grapes.
In other words, grape varieties that originate from a specific region and have naturally adapted to its local environment over a long period of centuries or – sometimes – millennia. A native grape is indigenous to the area, it’s often used in traditional winemaking and contributes to the region’s viticultural heritage.
Furthermore, being naturally suited to their environment, native grapes require fewer human interferences and adjustments to thrive. This results in wines that are not only environmentally friendly but also more reflective of their terroir.
Italy boasts an impressive array of over 2,000 indigenous grape varieties, showcasing the country’s rich viticultural heritage and biodiversity. Among these, approximately 400 are currently being cultivated for commercial wine production, reflecting the diverse terroirs and unique microclimates present throughout the 20 Italian regions.
This remarkable variety not only contributes to the distinctiveness of Italian wines but also highlights the deep-rooted traditions and practices of Italian winemaking that have been passed down through generations, as explained by the journalist and gastronomic critic for Gambero Rosso, Gerardo Antelmo,
“An increasing number of Italian wineries are wholeheartedly dedicated to the cultivation of native grape varieties, often employing organic practices. This commitment not only emphasises the essence of authenticity but also stands out as a refreshing counterpoint in a marketplace that in the past years became bland and homogenised.
“Tasting a wine made from native grapes is like stepping into a region’s history and culture. It’s a sensory journey that mass-market wines simply can’t replicate.”
In fact, modern wine markets have long been dominated by international grapes, prized for their adaptability and predictability. However, this has come at a cost with many wine lovers now actively seeking out uniqueness and authenticity over ubiquity and the mainstream.
They seek wines that tell a story – about the land where the grapes were grown, the climate, and the people who make them. If this phenomenon is evident on an international scale, are we witnessing similar trends in Thailand?
To find out, we turned to Christian Martena, the Chef and Co-owner of Clara Ristorante, one of Bangkok’s most iconic Italian dining establishments.
“We’ve observed a remarkable trend among our customers who are increasingly craving unique and authentic wine experiences. They are not merely searching for a beverage; they seek a story in every glass. This profound shift towards a desire for meaningful experiences and new knowledge during dining is both exciting and inspiring, as it elevates the entire culinary journey.”
In the region of Puglia, in Southern Italy, Cantine Polvanera stands at the forefront of this movement. From its inception 23 years ago, this family-run winery has championed native grapes, showcasing their depth and versatility, as highlighted by Filippo Cassano, Polvanera’s founder and CEO.
“We believe that Puglia’s indigenous grapes carry the essence of the region and the terroir on which they are grown. By focusing on our native grapes, we’re not just making wine; we’re preserving a centuries-old legacy.”
Among Polvanera’s standout offerings is the Primitivo di Gioia del Colle DOP, an ancient grape deeply rooted in Pugliese winemaking history. While Primitivo often takes centre stage, Polvanera has also devoted itself to lesser-known gems like Maresco, Aleatico, Bianco d’Alessano, Aglianico, and Susumaniello.
These wines offer a diverse range of aromas and textures, from the bold and spicy to the fresh and mineral-driven, all cultivated with organic methods that honour the land and the winery’s surroundings on the edge of the limestone Murge plateau. As Christian Martena tells us.
“Being a proud Pugliese, I distinctly recall that just three or four years ago, finding these varietals in Thailand was nearly impossible. Fortunately, times have changed for Puglia and many other Italian regions, as it has become increasingly evident that their quality often surpasses expectations.
“A shining example of this is the Polvanera Primitivo 17, which presents a miraculous blend of powerful aromas, elegance, and grace. By focusing on these remarkable local offerings, we can truly appreciate the richness of Italy’s diverse wine heritage”.
In an era where consumers are increasingly concerned about the environmental impact of their choices, Polvanera’s time-honoured organic practices resonate deeply. By prioritising quality over quantity and embracing a sustainable ethos, the winery has cultivated a loyal following among those who value integrity as much as taste.
As Polvanera continues to expand its presence in Thailand, it finds itself appealing to an audience that’s eager for new experiences. The Thai culinary scene, with its emphasis on bold and diverse flavours, provides the perfect backdrop for the winery’s portfolio.
As tastes in Thailand and in wider Asia evolve, Polvanera is poised to be one of the wineries leading the charge in celebrating the untapped potential of native grapes.
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