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A blessing in disguise – Phuket In Focus

Legacy Phuket Gazette

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A blessing in disguise – Phuket In Focus | The Thaiger
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PHUKET: “Under the weather” is one way to describe how I was initially feeling one Monday morning last month as I started traversing the city-block on foot, westward bound for the province’s prime asphalt artery, where I could catch a sawng taeo to work.

My oversized umbrella – held down at my side like it had been the pride of a knight, ready to be drawn for battle – provided a small-yet-significant sense of security as I hopped and skipped over puddles left over from an early morning drizzle.

Although there were no looming thunderclouds in the grayish-blue sky overhead, the weather can turn on you without even a second’s warning, especially this time of year, in this part of the world.

A beginners’ urban obstacle course at best, by no means was this part of Phuket challenging or tedious to walk; there are narrow yet passable sidewalks along most of the stretches of Montri, Dibuk and Thepkrasattri roads that I had to cover, and the traffic for the most part is slow and orderly enough to warrant safe crossings.

Unlike many of the streets and sois I’d scaled in Bangkok’s massive concrete jungle over the last decade, these particular Phuket Town streets were relatively clean and easy to navigate, and as I was starting to learn once again, enjoyable.

A small public park I must have driven by a countless number of times over the past year, suddenly stood out in all its serenity – a playground, vibrant gardens, a fountain – how could I have lived here so long without affording the due admiration for such a lively and charming neighborhood?

Indeed, I had taken many things for granted since first getting behind the wheel in Phuket two years ago, and now that I was forced to rely on my shoes again, new yet familiar thought synapses began to reactivate in a dormant part of my brain – such a re-awakening was long overdue!

Before I get more into that, first let’s rewind back to Sunday, when I had an automobile accident.

I must have been coasting at about 80 kilometers per hour (48 miles per hour) on highway four in Krabi, Southern Thailand, en route back to Phuket, when I suddenly slammed on my brakes in a reflex.

In all but an eye-blink, appearing and obstructing the road immediately ahead of me was a pickup truck, stopped in the middle of the single, northbound highway lane.

The truck must have been waiting to turn onto an adjacent eastbound road (that I only noticed after the fact). It’s mind boggling how the highways department could sanction such a deadly turnoff like this on a cross-provincial highway – one that requires all northbound highway traffic to come to a dead stop in only a short moments notice; no turn lane, no stop sign nor traffic light, just a single, hardly-visible overhead hazard light. Add rainy conditions and you’ve got inevitable disaster.

As it had been raining much of that Sunday morning, the road was slippery, so I found out the hard way upon braking, suddenly losing control of my vehicle, swerving to avoid colliding head-on with the back of the stopped truck. Evading the truck, instead I hit a roadside sign before continuing a few meters down into a lush and muddy ditch.

Everyone was intact; my son belted in the front seat, wife in the back, both screaming in shock after their abrupt awakening to the screech of brakes. I yelled for everyone to get out of the car, fearing fire could ensue.

There were a few onlookers who had started coming down into the ditch to check and see if anyone was hurt or worse. I relayed to them that we were unharmed; they helped open the passenger side door so my son and wife could escape, and I forced my door open and climbed up the ditch too.

The truck was nowhere in sight at this point, but I proceeded to call the insurance company. Upon learning that there was no damage to another car, LMG Insurance was quick to claim no liability whatsoever, and didn’t seem keen on offering any kind of support/assistance. I had to literally demand for them to send a tow truck after they made it clear that I’d have to clear the costs.

The insurance I had was the best one available for my 11-year-old car, classified as class 2+ (sawng buak), and in the fine print requires another vehicle to be damaged for there to be any liability assumed by the company. Moreover, in Thailand, fault is almost always assumed to belong to the person who collides.

Signs, curbs, hit-and-runs, dangerous obstructions on the road – no chance, “you’re on your own!” is the first and last message I got from LMG. The sad reality is this: had I crashed into the truck, all the damage would have been covered, regardless of who was at fault. But because it was a sign I crashed into, forget it.

Had I crashed into the truck, the accident would have surely been worse – my family might not have been so lucky. Nonetheless – no regrets here! When I think about what could have happened, I’m very fortunate. Cars can be fixed or replaced – life has no price tag.

The lifting and 100-mile towing of my vehicle back to Phuket cost me about 7,500 baht (about US$250); The initial quote from the garage for repairs will put me back another 65,000 baht (about $2,070). As I still owe about 130,000 baht ($4,000) on the car loan, I have no choice but to fix it for later use/sale.

Meanwhile, life moves on – and I’m ever grateful for this fact. Swallowing the reality of my situation was difficult at first, especially on Monday morning anticipating the logistics to get to work 10 kilometers-or-so away. It had been two-plus years since I’ve had to rely on public transport on this island, and I’d forgotten how easy and affordable it can be, during daylight hours anyway.

With the need to plan my commutes, I suddenly found myself with more time – to walk, to wait, to look, to listen, to think, to plan, and even to read (a novel) again. I felt free again – like a ninja with a sacred mission, all I’ll need for the day strapped on my back. Indeed, it feels good to breath, tuning in to the symphony of the city.

A bad week? I’m not so sure anymore – I’d like to believe that there is a true blessing disguised in here somewhere.

Keep checking our online Phuket news pages, join our Facebook fan page or follow us on Twitter @PhuketGazette for the latest local, national and international updates.

— Steven Layne

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Archiving articles from the Phuket Gazette circa 1998 - 2017. View the Phuket Gazette online archive and Digital Gazette PDF Prints.

Thailand

Covid tourism standstill gives Thailand’s southern sea gypsies a break

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Covid tourism standstill gives Thailand’s southern sea gypsies a break | The Thaiger

Phuket’s sea gypsy communities are getting a much needed break after the Covid tourism standstill have their traditions a break from the tourism onslaught. 42 year old Sanan Changham says now there is an abundance of fish and shellfish to eat. Tourist boats have been docked at the quay, making fishing easier for the Chao Lay, or “people of the sea.“

“We don’t dive as deep as before, so it’s less dangerous.“

More than 9 million visitors came to Phuket in 2019, impacting the sea gypsies and their way of life, mostly located at the southern end of the island. The booming tourism brought a decline in fish stocks, decreasing fishing grounds and loud construction of hotels. And the traffic. Such hotels signal an even bigger threat to the 1,200 Chao Lay in Rawai, as property developers have tried to evict them from their ancestral strip of land that faces the sea.

Ngim Damrongkaset, a Rawai community representative, says he hopes the area where developers have taken a stake is abandoned.

“They want to drive us out of our homes, but also to deny us access to the sea.”

For the Chao Lay people, the fight to keep their land has been unequal as most are illiterate and were unaware of the fact that they could register their land, but the government is trying to help them. One way for authorities to buy the land and entrust it to them.

Narumon Arunotai, an anthropologist at Bangkok’s Chulalongkorn University, says the government must seize the opportunity provided by the pandemic to rethink their vision on Chao Lay.

“Covid is an opportunity to change mentalities. Mass tourism in Phuket has been a catastrophe for the sea gypsies.“

The land in Rawai was originally claimed by Indonesian ancestors of Sanan, before the island became flooded with international travellers. But since tourism has become more profitable, authorities have cracked down on the sea gypsies unless they are sailing in protected marine reserves.

“Before, we risked being arrested by a patrol or having our boats confiscated.“

For the animist Chao Lay the beach is a vital space where they keep their colourful wooden boats and where they pray and give thanks to their ancestors. But not only their unique cultural heritage has helped them navigate the waters.

The Chao Lay people are experts at detecting any abnormalities in the water, as such they were able to escape before the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami hit, while saving loads of tourists. Furthermore, Children of the Moken have 50% better visual acuity in the water than their European counterparts, according to a 2003 study.

SOURCE: Thai PBS World

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Top 10

Top 10 English-language movies made in Thailand

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Top 10 English-language movies made in Thailand | The Thaiger
PHOTO: tntdrama - Hangover 11 (2011)

Thailand is active in attracting foreign movie makers to the Land of Smiles, and has been for decades. Many well known movies have been either partially or totally filmed in Thailand. From ‘The Killing Fields’ to ‘Around the World in 80 Days’. Here is our list of the Top 10 English-language movies that were at least partly made in Thailand. There’s also some excellent Thai-language films made in Thailand in one of the most prolific film industries in the world. But that’s a list for another day. Lights, camera, ACTION… Su su!

The Railway Man (2013)

A Colin Firth movie made partly in Thailand (also ‘Bridget Jones – The Edge of Reason’, 2004), ‘The Railway Man’ is a 2013 British–Australian war film directed by Jonathan Teplitzky. The movie also starred Nicole Kidman, Jeremy Irvine, and Stellan Skarsgård. The movie follows a tortured soul and his traumas as an ex-POW who was interred and tortured by Japanese troops in camps around the Thai Burmese border. He returns later in life to Thailand confront his demons.

From ‘The Telegraph’… “One of the most striking things about the terrain through which the “Death Railway” linking Thailand to Burma passed, is its extraordinary beauty. Much of the scenery is classically south-east Asian: lush and tropical, fringed with rugged, mountainous mystery. It is the stuff of travellers’ dreams. But as ‘The Railway Man’, the latest film to throw light on one of history’s darker chapters reveals, it is also the stuff of nightmares”.

The Hangover II (2011)

Hardly high art but a successful sequel to the original ‘Hangover’ starring Bradley Cooper, Ed Helms, Zach Galifianakis, Ken Jeong. The film was filmed almost entirely in Bangkok and around Phang Nga Bay including Phulay Bay, A Ritz-Carlton in Krabi. The film gives you the impression that you turn left in Bangkok, travel an hour or so, and arrive in Phang Nga Bay. Also the unlikely situation where you jump on a speedboat in Bangkok and arrive in Krabi on one tank of fuel! The reality is you would have to travel all the way south, around Singapore and then north through the Malaca Straits, a journey of three or four days.

The plot… well, anything and everything goes wrong! Tattoos, ladyboys, drugs, kidnapping, car chases, fingers chopped off. That’s about it.

In 2011 an Australian stuntman who was injured whilst filming in Bangkok sued Warner Bros. The case was settled out of court for an undisclosed sum. The film had a budget of US$80 million but returned nearly $600 million.

Good Morning Vietnam (1987)

‘Good Morning, Vietnam’ is a 1987 American military comedy-drama film written by Mitch Markowitz and directed by Barry Levinson. The movie is set in Saigon in 1965, during the Vietnam War. The movie was a major star-vehicle for Robin Williams as radio DJ Adrian Cronauer on Armed Forces Radio Service.

Plot, briefly… man becomes DJ on official military radio station in Saigon. DJ is widely popular with the US troops but very unpopular with some of the military bosses. Man meets woman, man falls for woman, woman’s brother is a Viet Cong pimp.

The film is famous for Williams’ radio broadcast scenes which were largely improvised. It was a critical and commercial success; for his work in the film, Williams won a Golden Globe Award for Best Actor – Motion Picture Musical or Comedy and was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Actor. ‘Good Morning, Vietnam’ was one of the most successful films of the year, becoming the fourth highest-grossing film of 1987.

The film was shot almost entirely in Bangkok.

Tomorrow Never Dies (1997) and Man with the Golden Gun (1974)

We throw these two Bond films into the same posting but extensive sequences in both were filmed in and around Phang Nga Bay in Southern Thailand. Ko Tapu, a limestone monolith standing all by itself, has become a major tourist attraction in the Bay and has even been renamed James Bond Island in honour of it’s backdrop performance in the Roger Moore ‘Man with the Golden Gun’. Probably one of the most boring of the Bond franchises but, hey, it spawned a whole new tourism attraction for the region!

‘Tomorrow Never Dies’ was the 18th James Bond film, this time with Pierce Brosnan with a license to kill. The Ho Chi Minh City scenes were shot in Bangkok and Phang Nga Bay, pretending it was some other asian location.

Heaven and Earth (1993)

Heaven & Earth is a 1993 American biographical war drama film written and directed by Oliver Stone and featuring a stellar cast including cranky Tommy Lee Jones, Haing S. Ngor, Joan Chen and Hiep Thi Le.

It is the third and final film in Stone’s Vietnam War trilogy, which also includes ‘Platoon’ and ‘Born on the Fourth of July’. The film was shot in Thailand as the Vietnamese government had decided Oliver Stone liked to depict their country in a negative light (it took them Stone’s two other films to figure that out). Town shots are filmed around Old Phuket Town and many of the wider shots of open paddocks and fields were filmed around Krabi.

The film was based on the books ‘When Heaven and Earth Changed Places’ and ‘Child of War’, ‘Woman of Peace’, which Le Ly Hayslip wrote about her experiences during and after the Vietnam War.

It was a box office flop earning only $5.9 million on a budget of $33 million.

Air America (1990)

‘Air America’ was a 1990 American action comedy directed by Roger Spottiswoode with Mel Gibson and Robert Downey Jr. as Air America pilots flying missions in Laos during the Vietnam War. All the ‘Laos’ shots were shot in Thailand.

Plot: When the protagonists discover their aircraft is being used by government agents to smuggle heroin, they must avoid being framed as the drug-smugglers.

Budgeted at $35 million, the production involved 500 crew shooting in 49 different locations in Thailand, London, and Los Angeles. Principal photography began on October 3, 1989 and ran for five months but the crew were called back six months later to film a new ending.

The producers rented 26 aircraft from the Thai military, although some of the stunt flyers refused to perform some of the stunts, with 60-year-old veterans being drafted for some of the more nuanced aerial shots. Sidenote: PepsiCo wanted the filmmakers to use a fictional soda rather than show opium being refined at their abandoned factory.

The Killing Fields (1984)

Not only a film made mostly in Thailand but also an Academy Award winner and a fitting story of the so-called Asian holocaust – the reign of terror by the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia between 1975 and 1979 where up to 2.5 million citizens were systematically starved, over-worked or killed.

The film focusses on two journalists, Cambodian Dith Pran and American Sydney Schanberg. It was directed by Roland Joffé and produced by David Puttnam. Sam Waterston played Schanberg, Haing S. Ngor as Pran, Julian Sands as Jon Swain, and John Malkovich as Al Rockoff.

At the 57th Academy Awards it received eight Oscar nominations; including Best Picture. It won three, most notably Best Supporting Actor for Haing S. Ngor, who had had no previous acting experience. Directer Roland Joffé said, of Haing S. Ngor’s performance… “Haing had been acting his whole life – you had to be a pretty good actor to survive the Khmer Rouge”.

From Roland Joffé… “We shot those scenes in the countryside outside Bangkok. Lots of very realistic looking corpses had been laid out. It was all very disturbing: you’d get a crawling feeling up your back during shooting. And there was a real panic when a farmer’s wife went out early in the morning and got a total shock when she saw them, poor woman”.

The Beach (2000)

The Beach is a 2000 British-American adventure drama film directed by Danny Boyle and based on the 1996 novel of the same name by Alex Garland. The film stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Tilda Swinton, Virginie Ledoyen, Guillaume Canet and, Robert Carlyle. It was partly filmed around Phuket Town and Koh Phi Phi Leh.

Producers got a lot of heat for bulldozing and landscaping sections of Ko Phi Phi Leh beach to make it more “paradise-like” including clearing some of the coconut trees and grass. Local environmentalists weren’t going to put up with that!

The lawsuits dragged on for years. In 2006, Thailand’s Supreme Court upheld an appellate court ruling that the filming had harmed the environment and ordered that damage assessments be made. Producers had made an allowance for repairing any damage but the 2004 Asian tsunami did its own ‘alteration’ of the beach.

The crappy old On On Hotel in Phuket Town, depicted in the movie, has had a major make-over since and now a very swish boutique hotel worth visiting anytime.

Did You Know? Ewan McGregor was cast as the main character before leaving due to disputes with the director. It was speculated that Director Danny Boyle was offered additional funding under the condition that DiCaprio be cast and his British character turned into an American (would have been more fun to hear Leonardo doing a British accent).

Around the World in 80 Days (1956 and 2004)

A grand Hollywood epic and a personal passion project for the, then, Mr Elizabeth Taylor, Michael Todd. The epic picture was directed by Michael Anderson and produced by Mike Todd’s company who financed the film by selling his Todd-AO 70mm film format. Admittedly, if you blinked, you’d miss the portions of the movie filmed in Thailand. A 2004 version, starring Steve Coogan and Jackie Chan, had segments also filmed in Thailand, posing as a Chinese village. It was a flop. Here’s an excerpt from Wikipedia about the original 1956 production…

Filming took place in late 1955, from August 9 to December 20. The crew worked fast (75 actual days of filming). The picture cost just under $6 million to make, employing 112 locations in 13 countries and 140 sets. Todd said he and the crew visited every country portrayed in the picture, including England, France, India, Spain, Thailand and Japan. According to the Time magazine review of the film, the cast including extras totalled 68,894 people; it also featured 7,959 animals, “including four ostriches, six skunks, 15 elephants, 17 fighting bulls, 512 rhesus monkeys, 800 horses, 950 burros, 2,448 American buffalo, 3,800 Rocky Mountain sheep and a sacred cow that eats flowers on cue.” There is also a cat, at the Reform Club. The wardrobe department spent $410,000 to provide 74,685 costumes and 36,092 trinkets.

The Impossible (2012)

Shot in 2012 and directed by Juan Antonio Bayona. Hard to leave out this one out as the story was about Phuket, Khao Lak and the Andaman Sea’s largest natural disaster – the Asian tsunami of 2004. The story revolves around a British family staying in Khao Lak for their Christmas holidays. The movie starred Ewan McGregor and Naomi Watts. Many Phuket extras were enlisted as extras for the movie. If we had one criticism about this film it would be the focus on the single family whilst the disaster killed up to 250,000 who were never referred to in the film.

Honourable mentions

The ‘Special Thanksgiving’ Award

‘Mechanic: Resurrection’ (2016). One big turkey. Probably better off un-resurrected.

The ‘Blink and you’ll miss it’ Award

‘Star Wars: Episode III Revenge of the Sith’ (2005)

Shot in 2005, directed by George Lucas, the finale of the original six Star Wars episodes. There were a few scenes filmed around Krabi Province to represent the Wookie home planet ‘Kaashyyk’. By the time the CGI crew got their hands on the original footage you’d be hard pressed to recognise the scenery.

‘Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason’ (2004)

A 2004 sequel of ‘Bridget Jones’s Diary’ and directed by Beeban Kidron that reunites the same cast members: Renée Zellweger as Bridget Jones, Colin Firth as Mark Darcy, and Hugh Grant as Daniel Cleaver. This time, the movie’s plot takes them to Bangkok (some scenes were shot along the infamous Soi Cowboy), to Phuket International Airport, Nai Yang Beach, and Panyee Island in Phang Nga Bay.

An exhaustive list of big movies made mostly or partly in Thailand, HERE.

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Drugs

Two die from heroin overdose in Samut Prakan

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Two die from heroin overdose in Samut Prakan | The Thaiger
PHOTO: Thai Rath

Two men have been found dead from a heroin overdose. They were found in a toilet in Samut Prakan Province, south of Bangkok, last night. Police reported that there were no signs of violence on either of the men.

Thai Rath reports that the men were aged 46 and 48. Police reported that they were found in the Samrong Nua Sub-district, and one of the dead men was still holding a syringe in his hand when the police discovered the bodies.

Their families were notified and came to collect the bodies for funeral ceremonies and religious rites.

Earlier this year the Office of the Narcotics Control Board reported that heroin has made a comeback on the Thai drug scene with more young people, mostly unaware of hidden dangers and problems with addiction, were using the narcotic.

A report noted the rising number of young people aged between 15-18 admitted to rehabilitation programs for heroin addiction.

In 2017, 3,744 youths attended rehab for heroin addiction. But that number had increased to 3,980 by 2019. In the 8 months since October last year, the number of young heroin addicts already surpassed 2,900, mostly of new addicts. The report by the ONCB noted that 1 in 3 heroin addicts across Thailand were young users.

Many of the young addicts reported that they were under the impression the substance was not harmful to their health and thought it was some kind of powder that caused a euphoric trance and wasn’t dangerous.

SOURCE: Thai Residents | Thai Rath

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